Plant Care Tips
We stock a variety of indoor plants: tropicals, air plants, succulents, cacti, as well as terrariums and other botanical designs. Unsure how to care for your plant? We’ve provided some quick tips below!
Looking for more one-on-one guidance? We have a variety of plant care services that you can choose from.
For additional plant care help:
Virtual Plant Consultation
Got plant care questions? Unsure how your plants are doing? Want recommendations on plants that will thrive in your space? Virtually connect with one of our plant care experts and we will provide you with as much help as we can!
Private In Shop Consultation
Need help with your plants from home? Looking for specific plant recommendations? Schedule a private consult with one of our plant experts for help with: plant diagnosis/general health assessment, repotting, staking, best care practices, etc.
Residential Plant Care Services
Our plant care sessions are a great way to give your plants all of the necessary care they need to survive and thrive in your space. Our goal is not only to give your plants wonderful care, but to keep you informed in the process! Plants outgrowing their current pot? Or, never repotted before? Whether you're looking for someone to guide you through the process or for one of our plant care experts to do it for you, we are here to help!
Email plantcare@bwillow.com
For quick, specific care-related inquiries, please email a photograph of the plant in question with as much detail as possible.
CARING FOR TROPICAL TERRARIUMS (OPEN OR SEALED)
LIGHT: Indirect, bright light is best. Direct sun will elevate the internal temperature of the terrarium, which can rot your plants and cause molding. Depending on the plant species, open terrariums can tolerate some direct sun without overheating and burning.
SOIL/MOISTURE: For all tropical terrariums, moisture should be visible through the glass. How damp to keep your terrarium will depend on plant species and if you have an open or sealed terrarium. It’s important to be able to differentiate between damp and dry soil within a terrarium so you can interpret moisture levels. Damp soil will be darker brown, clinging to the glass, and dry soil will be lighter brown and will not adhere to the sides of the glass.
Sealed Terrarium:
Should begin with slightly damp soil. If soil was dry during planting, mist your terrarium slightly. If you have a tight seal, you won’t lose moisture from your terrarium, meaning it’s important to not introduce too much moisture initially. If a sealed terrarium is kept too wet, it will quickly rot and the glass will constantly have condensation along the sides. Add small amounts of water at a time- misting is a great way to achieve this.
Partial Seal/Narrow Opening:
Check for dryness every so often, depending on how much air is escaping. Some with a narrow opening can retain moisture for weeks or months without needing watering. You should see some of the top soil drying before adding additional moisture.
Open/Non Sealed Terrarium:
If your plants have very tuberous stems or thick leaves, you should let the soil dry in between waterings. Generally at least 50% of soil should dry before you water. Plants with thinner leaves or less mature plants and stems will need to be kept more evenlty . In between waterings, use a mister to provide hydration for the leaves.
CARING FOR DESERT TERRARIUMS (OPEN)
Succulents or Cacti
LIGHT: Bright, direct sun is essential. At least 4-8 hours of direct sun- ideally South or West facing light, though East will also suffice.
SOIL/MOISTURE: For desert terrariums, soil should dry out completely in between full soakings. The easiest way to tell if you need to water your desert terrarium is by observing the plants themselves to detect dehydration. Succulents will have wrinkling, their leaves won’t look as plump and filled out. Cacti will look skinnier. Since cacti dehydrate so slowly it can be hard to tell if they look less filled out- it can help to take a photograph of your cactus when you first purchase it so you can compare its thickness over time.
CARING FOR CACTI
LIGHT: Bright, direct sun is best. At least 6 hours daily. If no direct sun is available, cacti will still survive in indirect, bright sunshine. During their fall/winter dormancy, they do not require as much direct sun (though still bright), and prefer cooler temperatures. If cacti do not receive enough light, they will appear to stretch and elongate towards a point of light.
SOIL: Well draining, coarse soil. Use 50% perlite or vermiculite, 40% potting soil, 10% sand or gravel.
WATER: Cacti are very drought tolerant, but that doesn't mean that they don't enjoy or benefit from regular waterings. In the spring & summer, cacti are in their growing season, meaning they require more water. Typically once every 2 weeks is sufficient but they can be watered once a week if you notice the soil is drying out quickly. In the late fall/winter, cacti go dormant and require less frequent watering- about once every 4 to 6 weeks depending how humid or dry your house is.
FERTILIZING: If using a non-synthetic, organic fertilizer, you can safely apply with every watering, year round (as these fertilizers break down in the soil slowly). If using a synthetic fertilizer, read the directions carefully and be sure to not fertilize too often. Synthetic fertilizers break down quickly and can burn your root tips and cause damage if your plant is not actively using nutrients that have been made available in the soil.
CARING FOR SUCCULENTS
LIGHT: Native to dry areas, succulents love sunshine. They do best with at least 6 hours of bright, direct sun. Too little sunshine will cause the stems to stretch, and the leaves to space out. This indicates that your plant literally searching for the sun. With bright sunshine your plants will become more colorful; however, too much direct sunshine can burn the leaves.
SOIL: Well draining, coarse soil. Use 50% perlite or vermiculite, 40% potting soil, 10% sand or gravel.
WATER: In the growing season (spring + summer), your plants will require more water to grow more. If your containers lack drainage, once every other week is enough. If you have them in a pot with drainage, water about once a week. In late fall/winter, succulents go through a dormancy period, and do not require as much water to survive. Back off to about once every 6 weeks. The thicker the leaves of your succulents, the more water they can store. This is why some succulents will start wilting before others. Observation is key! If you see wrinkling or concaveness in your leaves, they need more water to fatten up.
FERTILIZING: If using a non-synthetic, organic fertilizer, you can safely apply with every watering, year round (as these fertilizers break down in the soil slowly). If using a synthetic fertilizer, read the directions carefully and be sure to not fertilize too often. Synthetic fertilizers break down quickly and can burn your root tips and cause damage if your plant is not actively using nutrients that have been made available in the soil.
CARING FOR AIR PLANTS
LIGHT: Indirect, bright light. Some direct sun is okay, but too much will scorch your leaves and cause browning on the tips.
AIR: Most importantly, air plants require good air circulation. This is important to prevent rotting.
WATER: Air plants require being fully drenched with water, in addition to frequent misting. Always remove your air plant from its container before watering, though you may mist them within their container. Determining how often to drench your air plant depends on the thickness of their leaves. The thicker the leaves, the more drought tolerant they are (drench every 2 weeks or so). Those with thinner leaves require more frequent watering (drench 1-2 times per week). Air plants love humidity, so bathrooms are a great place to keep them. Make sure you water them in the morning, as they must be given enough time to fully dry out before the day is over. If not, they are prone to rotting. Shake off your plants thoroughly to remove any excess moisture.
You can also soak your air plants instead by leaving them face down in water for 10-20 minutes, with their base slightly above the water. Since air plants do not absorb anything through their roots, any lingering moisture at their base can cause rotting and plant death.
FERTILIZING: Use specific air plant fertilizer about once per month. This is typically a water soluble blend that you can add to your bucket when drenching, or into your spray bottle when misting. Our fertilizer blend is custom made for air plants, as they have different nutrient needs than potted plants that absorb nutrients through their roots. Air plants are sensitive to minerals, so be sure to use a specific blend!
CARING FOR BRIGHT LIGHT DEPENDENT TROPICALS
Ficus, Palm, Alocasia, Monstera, Hoya, Money Tree, Bird of Paradise, Philodendron
LIGHT: Bright, indirect light. Must be placed within a few feet of a bright window or under a grow light. Some direct sun is ok but keep an eye on your plant for faster dehydration in between soakings. Direct sun + dehydration can cause your plant to brown and/or drop its older leaves. Too little light can cause leaves to fade in color or stretch. This can also cause your plant to grow slower or become dormant. Low light can also lead to root rot as it can take longer for soil to dry, keeping the roots wet for too long.
SOIL: Well draining, nutrient-rich, chunky blend. Using a moisture retentive tropical soil blend as a base, add in amendments to add more air flow: orchid bark, perlite, charcoal, gravel, rice hulls, etc are great options.
WATER: Ficus, Hoya, Money Tree, Philodendron & Monstera should dry out significantly in between full soakings. Allow the top 75-100% of soil to dry. Bird of Paradise, Alocasia and Palms want to dry out, but not as much. Allow the top 50% of soil to dry in between full soakings. Leaves should also feel less rigid and limp when it’s time to water.
FERTILIZING: If using a non-synthetic, organic fertilizer, you can safely apply with every watering, year round (as these fertilizers break down in the soil slowly). If using a synthetic fertilizer, read the directions carefully and be sure to not fertilize too often. Synthetic fertilizers break down quickly and can burn your root tips and cause damage if your plant is not actively using nutrients that have been made available in the soil.
CARING FOR LOW LIGHT TOLERANT TROPICALS
Dracaena, Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia, Ferns, Sansevieria, ZZ, Peace Lily, Cast Iron, Pothos, Scindapsus, Maranta, Calathea
LIGHT: All varieties will thrive in bright light, and can acclimate to low light (will require some light, can be placed on the opposite side of a room with a window). Avoid direct sun, but Dracaena, Sansevieria, ZZ, Pothos and Scindapsus can acclimate to some direct sun. All will do well under a grow light. Too little light can cause leaves to fade in color or stretch. This can also cause your plant to grow slower or become dormant. Low light can also lead to root rot as it can take longer for soil to dry, keeping the roots wet for too long.
SOIL: Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia, Dracaena, ZZ, Sansevieria, Cast and more mature Pothos & Scindapsus require a well draining, nutrient-rich, chunky blend. Using a moisture retentive tropical soil blend as a base, add in amendments to add more air flow: orchid bark, perlite, charcoal, gravel, rice hulls, etc are great options.
WATER: Aglaonema, Dieffenbachia, Dracaena, ZZ, Sansevieria, Cast Irons and more mature Pothos & Scindapsus should dry out significantly in between full soakings. Allow the top 75-100% of soil to dry, moreso the larger and more established the plant is. Leaves should also feel less rigid and limp when it’s time to water. For less mature Pothos or Scindapsus, allow the top 50% of soil to dry in between full soakings. Ferns, Marantas and Calatheas prefer to stay evenly damp. Larger, more established marantas and calatheas or footed ferns can withstand more dryness (top 1-2” of soil can dry in between full soakings.
FERTILIZING: If using a non-synthetic, organic fertilizer, you can safely apply with every watering, year round (as these fertilizers break down in the soil slowly). If using a synthetic fertilizer, read the directions carefully and be sure to not fertilize too often. Synthetic fertilizers break down quickly and can burn your root tips and cause damage if your plant is not actively using nutrients that have been made available in the soil.